Fish Tales Decal Application

http://www.robertwinter.com/pinball/restorations/cc/cabinet/index.html

I would recommend using the wet mothod if this is your first time
applying decals. It's a lot more forgiving if you make mistakes. I
used this method exclusively on the first 4-5 cabs I did.

I now use the dry method since I'm a lot more comfortable with the
technique of decal application.

Robert
-----
http://www.robertwinter.com

RHicksjr.DeleteThis@aol.com wrote:
> Picked up a Fishy Tales at the local auction a few weeks back. Has the
> usual cab. fade and was looking at throwing the decals on. Never done
> this before. Do I need to sand off the old ones? Sand down to the bare
> wood? If so, what grit is best?
>
> Also the playfield needs to be touched up, up the right long cast (?)
> toward the top. What kind of paint should be used? I saw marco had some
> green paint looked about the right shade. Was going to touch it up then
> mylar it.
>
> Just ordered the fishtales inserts to clean up that area. Put a new
> HV-DMD Board and DOT MATRIX display (old display was fried)Otherwise
> the machine is pretty decent..
>
> Any advice or non sarcastic comments would be appreciated..
>
> Thanks
>
> Rob Hicks
> Lake Mary, FL
>

And check out the rest of Robert's site. Lots of good information on
there and great ways to do things . you might want to check out his
FT section too.

If you're doing decals get someone else to help you out....it will make
it tons easier.

Yay Robert, welcome to the dry side of the fence

-c

Robert Winter wrote:
> http://www.robertwinter.com/pinball/restorations/cc/cabinet/index.html
>
> I would recommend using the wet mothod if this is your first time
> applying decals. It's a lot more forgiving if you make mistakes. I
> used this method exclusively on the first 4-5 cabs I did.
>
> I now use the dry method since I'm a lot more comfortable with the
> technique of decal application.
>
> Robert
> -----
> http://www.robertwinter.com
>
> RHicksjr DeleteThis @aol.com wrote:
> > Picked up a Fishy Tales at the local auction a few weeks back. Has the
> > usual cab. fade and was looking at throwing the decals on. Never done
> > this before. Do I need to sand off the old ones? Sand down to the bare
> > wood? If so, what grit is best?
> >
> > Also the playfield needs to be touched up, up the right long cast (?)
> > toward the top. What kind of paint should be used? I saw marco had some
> > green paint looked about the right shade. Was going to touch it up then
> > mylar it.
> >
> > Just ordered the fishtales inserts to clean up that area. Put a new
> > HV-DMD Board and DOT MATRIX display (old display was fried)Otherwise
> > the machine is pretty decent..
> >
> > Any advice or non sarcastic comments would be appreciated..
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Rob Hicks
> > Lake Mary, FL
> >

If I recall, my FT artwork was screened on bare wood not the decal type
laminate that you may have. My MM has the laminate then screening on
that, along with other WPC pins.

All I did was sand the surface until smooth. This, of course, after
bondoing all the imperfections.

I use 60 grit paper to start then finish up with 120 grit. I know
others go all the way down to 220 grit, which is fine too.

You may want to check Google for a ton of info about decal
installation.

Bryan (CARGPB14) http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/bspins

"Warning! Achtung! Run away, Run away!: BK restorations may emit a
shower of sparks or flames or both. Keep a safe distance (like four
city blocks). Never return to a restoration once lit. Hot hot hot!"

(Sig line compliments of Clive at the Coin-Op Cauldron.)




CraigC -Chicago- wrote:
> Heat gun and paint scraper IMHO is the way to go. then use steel wool
> and paint thinner to remove the "boogers" that form when you do a light
> sanding. Sanding off the entire decal can make the surface uneven since
> you will sand more in some areas instead of others. To get profesional
> results you can use a urethane coating so no wood bits poke up and show
> as a tiny bump in the decal....you'll also have to do this if you plan
> on using the "wet method". IMHO dry gives you better adhesion, but
> there are different camps on this subject so google the many different
> threads and choose what's right for you.
>
> I always have someone touch up and clear my playfields so i cant
> comment on what's best for the DIY painter. If you're going to spend
> the time doing the cabinet all nice, then why not get the playfield
> cleared?
>
> -c

You can also check out Kerry Stair's site.

http://www.mantisamusements.com/projects/main.htm

He also shows how it can be done. Good luck!!

Bryan (CARGPB14) http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/bspins

"Warning! Achtung! Run away, Run away!: BK restorations may emit a
shower of sparks or flames or both. Keep a safe distance (like four
city blocks). Never return to a restoration once lit. Hot hot hot!"

(Sig line compliments of Clive at the Coin-Op Cauldron.)




CraigC -Chicago- wrote:
> And check out the rest of Robert's site. Lots of good information on
> there and great ways to do things . you might want to check out his
> FT section too.
>
> If you're doing decals get someone else to help you out....it will make
> it tons easier.
>
> Yay Robert, welcome to the dry side of the fence
>
> -c
>
> Robert Winter wrote:
> > http://www.robertwinter.com/pinball/restorations/cc/cabinet/index.html
> >
> > I would recommend using the wet mothod if this is your first time
> > applying decals. It's a lot more forgiving if you make mistakes. I
> > used this method exclusively on the first 4-5 cabs I did.
> >
> > I now use the dry method since I'm a lot more comfortable with the
> > technique of decal application.
> >
> > Robert
> > -----
> > http://www.robertwinter.com
> >
> > RHicksjr.RemoveThis@aol.com wrote:
> > > Picked up a Fishy Tales at the local auction a few weeks back. Has the
> > > usual cab. fade and was looking at throwing the decals on. Never done
> > > this before. Do I need to sand off the old ones? Sand down to the bare
> > > wood? If so, what grit is best?
> > >
> > > Also the playfield needs to be touched up, up the right long cast (?)
> > > toward the top. What kind of paint should be used? I saw marco had some
> > > green paint looked about the right shade. Was going to touch it up then
> > > mylar it.
> > >
> > > Just ordered the fishtales inserts to clean up that area. Put a new
> > > HV-DMD Board and DOT MATRIX display (old display was fried)Otherwise
> > > the machine is pretty decent..
> > >
> > > Any advice or non sarcastic comments would be appreciated..
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Rob Hicks
> > > Lake Mary, FL
> > >

You can also check out http://www.pinblog.com/index.php?s=fishtales as
well as http://www.hardys.org/gallery/FishTalesRestoration?page=1
where I have upwards of 60 pages worth of photos as I shopped myh FT,
and put on a new decal, and even re-created a backbox.

This was a work of love, hands down.



On 2005-06-23, Bryan Kelly <bskelly3 DeleteThis @aol.com> wrote:
> If I recall, my FT artwork was screened on bare wood not the decal type
> laminate that you may have. My MM has the laminate then screening on
> that, along with other WPC pins.
>
> All I did was sand the surface until smooth. This, of course, after
> bondoing all the imperfections.
>
> I use 60 grit paper to start then finish up with 120 grit. I know
> others go all the way down to 220 grit, which is fine too.
>
> You may want to check Google for a ton of info about decal
> installation.
>
> Bryan (CARGPB14) http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/bspins
>
> "Warning! Achtung! Run away, Run away!: BK restorations may emit a
> shower of sparks or flames or both. Keep a safe distance (like four
> city blocks). Never return to a restoration once lit. Hot hot hot!"
>
> (Sig line compliments of Clive at the Coin-Op Cauldron.)
>
>
>
>
> CraigC -Chicago- wrote:
>> Heat gun and paint scraper IMHO is the way to go. then use steel wool
>> and paint thinner to remove the "boogers" that form when you do a light
>> sanding. Sanding off the entire decal can make the surface uneven since
>> you will sand more in some areas instead of others. To get profesional
>> results you can use a urethane coating so no wood bits poke up and show
>> as a tiny bump in the decal....you'll also have to do this if you plan
>> on using the "wet method". IMHO dry gives you better adhesion, but
>> there are different camps on this subject so google the many different
>> threads and choose what's right for you.
>>
>> I always have someone touch up and clear my playfields so i cant
>> comment on what's best for the DIY painter. If you're going to spend
>> the time doing the cabinet all nice, then why not get the playfield
>> cleared?
>>
>> -c
>